Now that I no longer had work, I decided to mix things up a bit and head outside of Centro to check out a highly recommended spot for brunch. Ancestral was up on a hill by a park in what looked like an up and coming part of Oaxaca.

From the chirping birds to the abundant greenery, it certainly was a chance of pace. Known for cooking items on the comal (an ancient version of a plancha basically, I had zeroed in on the chilaquiles with yellow mole.

Now this was some proper-looking chilaquiles, with chips keeping their crispiness against the spicy yellow mole to the oregano pulled chicken. Muy sabrosa!

Since I had no pesos, I asked them to hail a taxi that accepted credit cards. 10 mins later a very friendly driver showed up and after some back and forth about my destination, off we went… until l asked to confirm he took cards. He said they had told him I was paying cash. Great. The driver though graciously pull over on the street that would, eventually, get me to the museum. Close enough I guess.

It turned out to be a blessing in disguise (pun intended) as that path allowed me to finally go inside the cathedral. It was at least 20 degrees cooler and many others like myself had taken temporary refuge from the heat and hubbub outside.

As I exited, I hear the distinct echoing music of some sort of marching band and noticed quite the celebration in the square ahead. It turned out to be a birthday party complete with indeed a marching band, giant paper mache heads and some poor kid that had a huge balloon that he had to keep spinning like a globe.

I made my way past the revelers to finally reach my destination, the Museum of Oaxacan Painters. Once again having no cash, they graciously let me in for free (not that it was much – about $4).

The first exhibit was dedicated to the famous Carnival, which takes place in July. I can’t imagine what a mess that must be for the city but very cool at least seeing it in this form.

I appreciated the variety of mediums and style that were featured throughout the small but well curated museum.

My favorite though was a local sculptor who had created these massive “guardians”

After getting my culture on, I took a taxi back up the hill to the bakery I had discovered yesterday, to get a sandwich for the flight home and another one of their yummy carrot coconut muffins. Plus, it was close for a gourmet ice cream shop that sounded like a perfect treat. Alas, it was closed but a chocolate cafe next to it was open. Obviously, the last thing I wanted was a hot chocolate but they also had a cold Oaxacan chocolate malt.

I’m normally not a fan of chocolate malt but once again this was hardly ordinary. Complex and bursting with flavor and giving me a nice buzz from the 50% cacao, I had to stop myself from slurping it down all at once.

I walked down a couple of blocks back to my place and finding the pool empty, hopped in too cool off even further. I needed to regain my strength for my final meal out, which will be the topic for my next (and last for this great city) post. Stay tuned.

Hey did I mention it was hot here? The cumulative days of heat had begun to take a toll on me so being able to grab a sandwich at a small bakery 2 blocks from me sounded good.

While I waited for them to make my lunch, I checked out their wondrous selection of baked goods, choosing what I had been told to was their specialty, almond croissants, along with a carrot/coconut muffin. This great spread was a grand total of $9 and the bacon egg croissant sandwich was exactly what I needed.

My final day of work done along with my requisite siesta, I headed down the hill into a much more boisterous Centro now that the weekend was here. My destination was one of the stations of the cross for foodies – Casa Oaxaca.

I had a pretty spectacular table overlooking the cathedral where a female opera singer was playing the hits. Soon, a server approached me to create a custom salsa from a variety of ingredients. At last I could actually have a salsa without garlic! I picked out my selections, and he proceeded to ground and mix them all together in my very own salsa.

After I placed my order for my starter, I was given a large blue corn tostada with crumbled quesillo for my new salsa. It was a great way to enjoy it and a perfect kickoff to the meal

Soon after, my starter arrived – mushroom quesadilla with radishes and greens. This was definitely the fanciest quesadilla I had ever had and one of the best. The earthy mushrooms were beautifully mixed with the ubiquitous quesillo along with the perfectly crisped tortilla. Superb.

But I was really here for only one thing – the world famous Casa Oaxaca mole negro with turkey, which is the traditional protein pairing. The mole is made of 52 ingredients, including a custom chocolate spice blend created for the chef via a local market.

The aroma of the mole alone was captivating but when I actually tasted it, my mind was blown. The depth and the complexity of the mole made me realize I really had never truly had mole negro. It was sweet, bitter, savory, rich and unlike anything I had ever have. It even made my least favorite protein- white turkey meat – delicious. Now I know why it’s so sought out. Incredible.

I didn’t really want a true dessert but it was finally cool-ish enough to try the famous Oaxacan hot chocolate. A local had told me the other day it’s actually better to do it with water versus milk as it brings out the spices more. The server smiled when I chose that option and soon my steaming hot cup arrived.

Similar to the mole, it was like I had never really had hot chocolate. The spice and complexity was truly something with the water indeed making the flavors stand out more. It was a great way to end one of the best dinners I’ve ever had in Mexico. I will be back someday.

Still buzzed from both that experience and the high octane chocolate, I walked a few blocks away from Centro to the Oaxaca Brewery.

As I entered, it was readily apparent there was no A/C with a fan blowing essentially hot air around the room. With that in mind, I opted for the taster of their hazy IPA since that was definitely not something I was expecting to have. It was a nice thirst quencher.

After I had a few sips and had cooled down a bit, it was time for what had immediately caught my attention as a dark beee lover – the cacao nibs Pilsner. Pilsner was actually a very smart choice for this as it wasn’t as heavy as a porter or stout. This was a home run with the great Oaxacan cacao nibs adding some depth and complexity to the beer.

Chatting with the bartender, he told me that because of the presidential elections on Sunday, as of tomorrow, no alcohol would be served until Monday. That made this beer the perfect way to end my journey with the great variety of alcohol in Oaxaca. I made my way back to mi casa to get some rest for the last hurrah of my final day/night.

After working in the morning, I headed out to the first of 2 restaurants run by female chefs. Given the hot weather, it was perfect time to get the famous Oaxacan tomato salad at Levadura de Olla. I had a 1pm reservation and accidentally entered as the chef was doing final preparations for service, which was fun to see.

The restaurant was in a beautiful courtyard which was thankfully shaded. I had wanted to try one of the ancient Oaxacan drinks and they had a full page of them. I opted for the tepache, which was made with smoked rind of pineapple, chili powder and honey, which is then fermented for 2 weeks. Hadn’t really had anything quite like it – a blend of sour and sweet with just enough alcohol for a tiny buzz. Very refreshing.

Soon it was time for the reason I was there. There were 8 different Oaxacan tomatoes/tomatillos, which had been carefully sliced and placed on top of a roasted beet sauce. So simple but oh so delicious. Some of the tomatoes were sweet, some tangy and all complemented beautifully by the sauce, which was so good, I used it as a sauce with my chips too after I had eaten all of the tomatoes. A great lunch.

After work and the requisite siesta, it was off to dinner for my second female chef restaurant, Tierra del Sol, which funny enough, turned out to be right around the corner from Levadura. After briefly touring their fantastic bakery, I was led to a room to sit down and enjoy a fresh tortilla they were currently making for me. The hostess said there were 4 salts to choose from ranging from tradition to one with chapulines and one with maguey worms. I decided to mix the sea salt with a bit of the chapulines one. Delicious.

Next, I was led upstairs to the beautiful terrace with a stunning backdrop. The weather was now basically perfect, which allowed me to the ignore the large family table next to me with kiddos running around. Needing some roughage, I chose the Premixtal (ancient Mexico) salad of various local greens with a pepita vinaigrette. It was a great mix of floral and bitter greens with the dressing adding some nice acid.

It was wise to start light like that as my main course was anything but that – “aromatic mole” the chef’s own red mole blend with braised pork shank. This was very decadent with the meat falling off the bone into the deep, complex mole. After a few bites, I took my server’s suggestion and used the fresh blue corn tortillas to make a very different taco. That was enough for me to raise the white flag and eschew what looked like some great chocolate (por supuesto) desserts.

It was still early enough so I headed over to Sabina Sante, a bar my friend Ed had loved when here, for a night cap. I posted up in the corner and told the bartender I wanted a smoky mezcal cocktail. He suggested one of his favorites as the basis for a mezcal margarita. I’m usually not a fan of those but trusted him. I’m glad I did as the smoky mezcal was nicely blended with the traditional margarita profile.

Restricting myself to just one, I headed back home while taking a few pics of the great street art along my walk home. Tomorrow would be my final day of work (huzzah!) and a visit to the Mole Master.

Once again my day wasn’t the most thrilling as I was working. Still, I had to eat something so took a break and ventured into the heat. It was taco time.

For this round, a local had recommended a place not too far from me that had good BBQ tacos and made their own beer, Chirundo de Humo. Sold. The restaurant had literally just opened when I got there so I was able to take the large table which was the only one in total shade.

I was quite surprised to see a German Dunkel as an option for the beers so had to try that. Ahhh I had forgotten how effin good an ice cold beer is on a hot day. It was a great version of that German classic.

There were 4 different tacos to choose from which came as a pair of 3 but wanting to try multiple types, I asked if I could have one of each – choosing the brisket, the pulled pork and of course, the barbacoa.

The brisket had a surprising amount of lime on it which actually worked with the rich meat and the quesillo. The pork was my least favorite of the three but still quite good. The barbacoa had been crisped like a birria taco but with the consomé. It had a bit of a kick too but tolerable. A great lunch.

I had previously briefly chatted with a local woman who was a tax lawyer for the state and had asked if she could practice her English with me. I said sure and then arranged to meet her at a mezcal bar I had wanted to check out. But first, dinner.

I had read about a place close to the bar that had an extensive vegan menu. Having had a lot of carne until now, that sounded like a good idea. I was to meet up at 8pm so wasn’t surprised when I was the lone patron at Le Campane.

While it wasn’t a pure vegan spot, I decided to pick a couple of this dishes. First up was elote with grilled mushrooms and cherry tomatoes in an almond cream sauce. This was a great starter with earthy mushrooms nicely balanced with the roasted corn.

I was also intrigued by the description of the Berlin. I’m not a huge fan of vegan sausages but their version sounded very interesting. Along with the chorizo was a large helping of roasted Hen of the Woods mushrooms and some really good roasted potatoes with thyme and smoked paprika. This was an outstanding dish. The chorizo was easily the best non meat sausage I had ever had and would never have guessed it was one.

I made my way across the street to the Sobrio Mezcal Speakeasy. My companion was running late so I staked out the lone small table in the cozy venue and waited. And waited. And waited. Finally, she showed up about 45 mins late. Having already chatted with the server, I was ready to try a different Mexican liquor, sotol, which originated from Chihuahua and is a different plant used. I opted for the Sotol Negroni and she ordered a beer.

We spent the next half hour or so swapping between English and Spanish as I explained things like would vs. should. She had downed her beer quickly and ordered another one. I was still enjoying my Negroni so we continued to chat about her background and family.

She downed the second beer pretty quickly and after previously telling me she didn’t like sotol, ordered the same drink as mine. After an initial bad reaction, she gulped it down. I was still finishing my first (and now definitely my last.)

It started to go downhill from there. After a couple of stray comments that had my Spidey sense going off, the combo of Devil water and beer apparently started to take effect. At the bar, a hip looking gay couple was chatting with the server. She looked over at me and said “why are THEY here?”with disgust. Ay caramaba.

I decided to ignore it, and she then looked at me quizzically “tu eres maricon?” I just stared at her and said no. She then said “oh you vote for Biden then.” Great. She launched into a long diatribe about the “ungrateful” Venezuelans and how smart Trump was to go after them, explaining her ex lived in a Texas border town which was “infested with them.”

She ordered a third beer as I said hey you know you were supposed to pay for that genius wall of his. I no longer cared at this point as she continued from the MAGA songbook. I stood up and walked up to the server who had clearly overheard at least some of it and told her to charge my drink and the first beer with the rest on her. As I was paying, one of the gay guys patted me on my shoulder and said “gracias.”

I told her I got her first beer and the rest were on her as I bolted, immediately blocking her from WhatsApp. What a truly awful person who I’m sure enjoys stringing along gullible tourists. Not this hombre. I basically ran up the street back to my place, eager to leave that unpleasantness behind. Oh well, at least I got a good story for the blog.

After the whirlwind that was evidenced in my last post, things downshifted a bit as I had to work during the day. After somewhat regretting that decision, I eventually powered through, helped by the fact my place was attached to a good seafood restaurant. Getting some delicious shrimp tacos delivered directly to my door didn’t hurt either.

After finishing work and a much needed siesta, I was off again. This time I wanted to try some different regional cuisine and had read Terazzo Istmo had one of the nicest terraces in tow and also great food from that area. The weather had once again mercifully cooled down and as I ascended the stairs to the restaurant, I was greeted with a nice breeze.

The echoes from the honking horns were neutralized by the calm, tranquil atmosphere of the restaurant. This was made even more evident once I started sipping on my delicious Mezcal Mule cocktail.

Continuing my quest to try at least 2 dishes per dinner, I asked my server what a good Itsmo starter would be and he recommended the Melina – which was basically a smoked fish pate. Sold.

Consisting on fish first smoked and then grounded into basically a powder via a mortar and pestle, it was a nice way to start the meal. More of a powder than a paste per se, it had a nice gentle heat that made it quite different than a typical smoked fish dip.

I hadn’t had the Oaxacan staple tlyuda (basically a giant tostada) yet so I was intrigued what the Itsmo version would be like. As it turned out, a lot different as this rendition cut it in half and then rolled up like a burrito.

This one was a mixture of fresh herbs, steak, chorizo and of course quesillo. It wasn’t, however, soft like a burrito but still had a crispy texture. Very different and very delicious.

I had noticed that the couple sitting next to me had become just one person for quite sometime. Recognizing he was clearly a gringo, I asked what had happened to his companion and he explained that they had flown in from Mexico City yesterday. Unfortunately, it appeared something else had tagged along and his boyfriend was down for the count.

We chatted a bit, and he noted he was wanting to check out a bar that had also been recommended to me, Sabina Sabe so we decided to head over as it was close by. Unfortunately, Google Maps had lied to us and it was closed.

There was another bar, Selva, that was also on both of our lists so walked a few blocks further and ascended the stairs to a jungle themed (selva = jungle) hideaway. Known for its inventive mezcal cocktails, I asked for a smoky but not sweet version. Our server immediately steered me to his favorite – mezcal with cingar (a smoked artichoke liqueur) It was a bit heavy with the cingar, which added some bitterness but overall a very nice cocktail.

However, before I had taken a sip, the server (different than the one with whom I had placed the order) pointed my glass of water and suggested I have a sip of the side shot before the cocktail. Uh wha? He had disappeared before I had a chance to ask WTF was he talking about so I sat there with my cocktail, untouched. About 10 mins later my new friend agreed with me it must have been a mistake so I finally sipped away.

Having work the next day, I declined another but amusingly enough, the mysterious shot of mezcal finally arrived. By that point, it probably wasn’t wise to down the whole thing so I just took a couple of sips – not bad but not worth the agita I dealt with to get it.

It was closing time so we said our goodbyes. I gave him a couple more places I had been to so far and headed back up to my place for some rest. Tomorrow was going to be another relatively quiet day/night before the real food porn will begin. So fear not, dear readers there’s much more to come.

I’m usually not one to visit the same country in back to back trips but going from Cabo to Oaxaca is decidedly different. After my friend Ed had visited here for a wedding last year and almost convinced me to hop to a plane, it was definitely a place I wanted to visit muy pronto.

As readers of this blog know, last year I decided to take advantage of remote work by truly working remotely. Plus in this case, I’d have a holiday to get my bearings before working the rest of the week. So, having found both a decent deal on a non-stop flight and a really good AirBnB spot, off I went.

After a thankfully smooth flight, I soon arrived in the Centro of Oaxaca. Given it was 9:30pm on a Sunday, my options for food were a bit limited but fortunately, the highly rated El Destilado’s more casual upstairs (aka el techo) was open.

Known for their cocktails, I opted for a mezcal drink that intrigued me – Negroni de Cantora – which had mezcal, Cinzanno rosso and of course, Campari, except in this case the ingredients had been mixed together in a clay pot and then set aside in a dark room for 1335 days to mimic a solera method of aging rum. A nice start.

The menu, while short, had a few dishes that looked good but I was instantly drawn to the Open Grilled Vegetables of the House – broccoli, broccolini, smoked pickled carrots, nori, onions in a guajillo and another local Oaxacan pepper sauce. The vegetables were perfectly cooked and the sauce was rich and just enough heat. They eventually gave me a basket of blue corn chips to dip, which was a great choice.

Next up I choice the tamal with pork rib, onions and herbs with both a pickled red cabbage puree and a local smoked pepper sauce. The tamal was full of flavor and moist with the acidic puree cutting through the richness nicely. Wary of potential garlic issues in the pepper sauce I only had a quick pour of it, which was enough.

Knowing how hot the weather would be during the day, I decided to take advantage of the now perfect weather to wander a bit around my new ‘hood for the week.

After a fitful night of sleep due to never getting the room temp quite right, it was time for lunch so I headed over to a highly recommended sandwich/bakery. Alas, there was a line down the block and in this intense heat, that was a non-starter. Fortunately, the next block over was what appeared to be a pop up inside a bar which was selling quesillo (what Oaxacans call their famous local white cheese) sandwiches. Simple but cheap and delicious.

The heat was becoming very oppressive so the museum of pre Hispanic art sounded good to me. Rufino Tamayo took over 20 years to curate this truly impressive collection of mostly ceremonial art, some dating back over 3000 years, and then gave it all to the museum in his hometown.

Two of my favorites.

Each room was dedicated to a specific region of Mexico, color coordinated.

There was also a very pretty courtyard filled with votive statues.

The heat was now pushing 95 and was sapping me of my remaining energy so I decided to cool off back at mi casa. This turned out to be fortuitous as about an hour later a massive isolated thunderstorm ripped through, knocking out power for a bit.

After a quick siesta and thankfully cooler weather, I walked a few blocks to my next destination – El Mezcalado – which was an appointment only mezcal tasting room. Focused on almost exclusively Oaxacan mezcals from tiny producers, I was given an option of 3-5 tastes. I decided to split the difference with 4.

My host explained how different species of agave (there are over 20 of them), the cultivation and distillation styles – from copper boilers to clay pots – affect the end mezcal. He gave me 2 that had been distilled only once, which were cleaner and not really smoky like a traditional mezcal and 2 that were smoky being twice distilled and cultivated via more ancient methods. Of course, the one I liked the most was the most expensive but at least I coaxed a for the road second shot of it.

Before I left, I asked my host where he goes on his day off and he immediately replied with La Popular, which was pretty nearby. It was a small corner restaurant that featured classic Oaxacan dishes in a more casual setting than some of the other places I’d be visiting later in the trip.

First up was a truly ancient dish called Hongos de Oaxaquena – grilled mushrooms with melted quesillo and a tapenade of champulines (ground grasshoppers) The latter came as a surprise as there wasn’t the expected crunch but my server told me they use a mortar and pestle to turn it into a paste. A very interesting and tasty dish.

I decided to be a bit more traditional for my next course – tostada of braised pork leg and chícharones. This was very rich and very tasty. This was a massive tostada filled to the brim with puerco, puerco, puerco. Vegetarians look away!

Needing to walk off that meal, I headed down the street to the main cathedral which was teeming with people. It turned out there was a massive teacher sit-in to protest their lack of support, which had now lasted 15 days. The flood lights being used washed out my pictures so y’all will just have a visualize in your mind’s eye.

I walked back up the small hill to my place, tried and ready to get some much needed sleep. Tomorrow was going to be even hotter than today so perhaps not such a bad thing I have to work then.

The weather had cleared up again which also meant the heat was back too. Rather than schlepping up the hill, I opted for a quick Uber for round 2 at Tacos Gardenias. Along with the fried shrimp, this time I went with a fried fish and grilled octopus.

They were once again all excellent with the smoky tender octopus stacking up to the ones I had at Asi y Asado. The fried fish, like the shrimp, was light, crispy and not oily at all. I decided to try some of the avocado crema, which was a great condiment for it. Muy sabrosa!

After cooling off for a bit, I once again headed over to Baja Brewing Co but this time for some sunset cerveza. I took my same seat at the bar to admire the truly impressive vistas and noticed a band was setting up on a nearby stage. I took in a couple of decent rock covers until finishing up my beer.

After a much needed siesta, it was time for the grand finale – dinner at the truly unique El Farallon. Located a mere 10 minute drive from the heart of the action, the restaurant and the surrounding Waldorf-Astoria property were like being on another planet. I was greeted at the front of the hotel and escorted through a winding path with the sounds of the surf growing louder and louder.

The restaurant was perched along the edge of the cliff with crashing waves below. Suffice to say, it was all pretty spectacular, made even all the more so thanks to the full moon brightly hanging above.

I was escorted to my table with the explanation that given the proximity to the waves, it’s possible I might get some spray. I said I was fine being in the splash zone and took my seat. Since I was dining solo, they rearranged the table so my view was the entire coastline. As if that wasn’t enough, suddenly a small fireworks show started at the end of the nearby beach.

I decided to mix things up and instead of the usual glass of wine, I chose their ginger and cucumber mojito, which my server informed me was his favorite. He then explained that they don’t have a traditional menu and that their “fish master” would be by shortly.

After about 10 minutes, the “fish master” arrived, toting a large blackboard. He started at the top, showing the various catch of the day along with other seafood options like shrimp and lobster. I decided to go with the red snapper and picked the roasted tomato with a curry crust and the basil penne pasta as my two sides.

The first course was supposed to be a tortilla soup but that had garlic so instead I got I assume the vegan option – sweet corn cream soup with coconut soup. This was perfectly fine albeit perhaps a bit too sweet. The corn was fresh and crunchy. A nice start to the meal.

Next was a trio of appetizers. A piece of grilled white sea bass, ceviche of sea bass and pickled carrot and cherry tomato salad. Again, none of these were mind blowing but quite tasty. And reality, with this spectacular setting, it was more than acceptable.

Finally, it was time for the main event. The snapper was perfectly cooked with a nice crispy skin. The side cup of drawn butter was a nice touch. The basil pasta was decent but the real surprise was the roasted tomato with a curry crust, which exploded with flavor. A great main plate.

Finally, it was dessert time and since I was oh solo mio, they gave me both that are normally shared. Score! Two different profiteroles- one with a coffee crème and chocolate sauce and the other a mango/vanilla filling with butterscotch sauce and candied peanuts. They were both delicious and incredibly rich so I didn’t have even attempt to finish them off.

I waved the white flag and while tempted for a nightcap of tequila, which my server insisted was great for digestion (right) I politely declined. As I waited for my check, I took in one last glance of the truly awe-inspiring setting and returned back to Earth via the short Uber ride home.

Thus was effectively the end of my 3rd sojourn to Cabo, a great trip and fun adventure as always in one of my favorite spots in Mexico. It definitely wouldn’t be another 21 years to return again.

The weather had definitely turned with rain threatening. Fortunately, I had purposefully planned for basically an off day, including finally checking out one of the spots in the Marina I had passed multiple times. It being Sunday, I wanted to have a Mexican style brunch and chilaquiles (aka breakfast nachos) were on my mind.

I walked literally around the corner to Los Deseos, which had multiple chilaquiles options. I decided to try the chicken gratin version, which featured grilled chicken breast, poblano peppers, chips and blended white Mexican cheeses.

I normally associate the dish with poached eggs so this was more like actual nachos. Still, it was pretty damn tasty and a nice change of pace from all of the seafood I had been eating prior.

I had passed by a sign offering 90 min massage for $40 and given the bad weather thought that was a good option. At such a price, I wasn’t expecting much but turned out to an excellent massage.

By night time, the weather had returned to normal, which was a good thing as the restaurant I was going to, Metate, is almost all outside. It being voted the best new restaurants in Cabo was intriguing enough, but what really made me book it was the fact it was outside of the “golden zone.”

After being driven down literally a dirt road (but still only 15 mins away) , I entered into what felt like an entirely different world than what I had experiencing since I got to Cabo. Gone were dudes in floral shirts and shorts at dinner (it’s not an effin luau guys) and instead was a calm, serene vibe I had been craving.

I was warmly welcomed and led to a lovely table in the courtyard where they had a sign with my name, a simple but graceful touch. Metate is known for applying new techniques to classic Baja cuisine, including offering cooking classes in their large outdoor space.

I decided to get 2 starters in lieu of a main to get a bit more variety. First up was a roasted beet salad with fresh herbs, cherry tomatoes, curds in a tepache dressing. I had never had beets with cherry tomatoes but they really worked together in this dish. The dressing was particularly interesting with a mix of sweet, sour and a bit spicy.

Next up was their signature starter – Huesos de Corado – roasted bone marrow with toppings that are changed on a regular basis. Tonight’s version was Roasted bone marrow with shredded Machaca beef, grilled shrimp, watermelon radishes and creamy avocado.

It was served with both grilled bread and corn tortillas. The bread was the way to go to smear all of that combined goodness into a single bite. The rich bone marrow and shredded beef was nicely paired with the slightly bitter radishes and the avocado cream. Delicious and very glad I made that my last savory course.

I had yet to have a dessert on this trip so after taking a breather, I zeroed in on an intriguing option – Mexican chocolate lava cake with blue corn ice cream and peanuts. It was quite simply the best dessert I had in a long, long time.

I was first puzzled why the ice cream was on top but it soon made sense as when I cut into the cake, the hot Mexican chocolate oozed out making a combined wondrous sauce. There’s really nothing better than high end Mexican chocolate with those spices mixing with slightly savory ice cream. Mind blowing.

I said my goodbyes and decided to hit up a spot close to apartment for a nightcap. My heart sank a little as I was once again surrounded by some truly Ugly Americans who were basically yelling at each other in various states of inebriation. I tried to tune it all out and enjoy my port, which more or less worked. The most obnoxious group thankfully left so I was able to enjoy the last quarter of my drink in relative calm.

I took the quick walk back to my place, still thinking about how special Metate was. Tomorrow would be the last hurrah, revisiting some spots both new and old as my time in Cabo was quickly coming to a close.

It was a perfect day to head to the beach or in my case, next to it so I made my way to the end of the Marina and crossed over to Medano beach, which was not surprisingly packed given the weekend. The sand was quite soft, making it hard to get proper footing so by the time I made it to my destination, I had put in quite the workout.

The Office is a Cabo institution, a home to both families enjoying a meal at the beach and scalawags who flock to the large bar for the generous portions of margaritas and other classic libations. I went here both of my previous trips but not for lunch so I was curious how the (not cheap) food was.

I was hoping to try one of their breakfast dishes but alas only lunch menu now. Still, the shrimp tacos “governor style” (stewed tomatoes, green peppers and Jack cheese) sounded like a good stand in. Served this way and with the large flour tortillas it more like a crepe than a traditional taco trio. The shrimps were perfectly cooked paired nicely with the veggies and melted cheese. Not cheap but delicious.

The nice weather quickly got fairly cloudy so I decided to leave the beach to go check out this small batch tequila store to do a tasting. The owner was very jovial and accommodating, allowing me to try not only their more standard repasados and añejos but also a couple of “extra” añejos. Of course my favorites were the most expensive ones. I told him I had to think about it and asked how much for the tastings. He shook his head and said it was free. I tipped him a few bucks and went on my way, now just a wee bit tipsy.

Despite the looming dark skies, I decided to head up to my roof deck pool again, this time actually getting in the water, which was exactly what I needed. I hung out a bit on the chaise lounge to dry off and eventually went back to my room for a siesta and change of clothes for my nostalgic tripped dinner.

Edith’s is another Cabo staple and in fact shares the same owner. I had been here both of my previous Cabo trips so another visit was a must. The restaurant basically put Baja cuisine on the map and is a truly stunning venue.

I was welcomed with a vegetable tostada, which was delicious. In classic steakhouse fashion, I was soon present with tray full of options from which to choose. It was a no brainer to get the wood grilled Catch of the Day with grilled asparagus, sautéed spinach and mashed potatoes, a meal my dad often tries to get even when not on the menu prepared that way. So this one is for you, Dad.

The generous filet was perfectly cooked and so fresh. The vegetable medley with a nice accompaniment and the mashed potatoes were very creamy. Simple but delicious.

As a night cap, I decided to go check out Bar 360 next to the restaurant. The venue was in the same hotel as the Baja Brewing but a few floors higher so the views were even more stunning.

I selected a Mezcal based margarita but told them to hold the agave syrup so I could enjoy more of that smokiness I love so much in a cocktail. I sipped on my drink and did some prime people watching – a mix of sauced hotel guests and those just out for a night on the town.

I was starting to fade pretty fast so I finished up my drink and made the quick walk back to my apartment. I didn’t have anything planned the next day but that night would be a different story. Stay tuned.

The next day it as time to finally hit the playa so I made a hike up a surprisingly steep hill and then back down again to get to the heart of the Medano beach. I had read about a relatively chill spot that had a nice view, Milky Beach.

There were 3 levels but I chose the middle one which my hostess said was her favorite. It was indeed a beautiful view that I basically had all to myself. Wanting something a bit lighter for lunch I opted for the seafood ceviche with fresh shrimp, octopus and tuna.

I should have put something next to this for scale but it was a massive bowl of seafood goodness. It was a bit spicier than I prefer but I eventually got used to it. They even gave me a free bottle after apologizing for it being a bit too spicy. That was a nice touch.

I had read about a local brewery, Cabo Brewing Company, which happened to be right up the hill so off I went. I navigated my way through a new, sleek hotel and went up to the 7th floor to be greeted by this truly stunning view.

The owner, Guillermo, welcomed me and asked what type of beer I liked. I said I wanted to try a few different ones so he gave me a taster option of 4 of his favorites – ranging for a hazy IPA to a Black IPA (my favorite) The quality was quite good and I mean just look at the view!

I remarked to Guillermo that the biggest change that I’ve seen since I was here 21 years ago is the height of the buildings. I never had really gotten an aerial view like this before of the coast.

I decided to have one more round of 2 other beers – their signature blonde and a sweet potato one (interesting but a sample was enough) along with the black IPA and the stout I had earlier.

Tonight was the only night where I didn’t have any dinner plans so I asked Guillermo where he goes on his night off. He quickly replied with Gardenias Tacos. Sold.

So after a much needed siesta, soon I was off to go check out this favorite of the locals, which was pretty close to my apartment. I love hole in the wall places like this so I was a happy camper.

I had yet to have a fish or shrimp taco so why not both? I selected a grilled fish, shrimp and fried shrimp taco. Not exactly the speediest of service but eventually was presented with this glorious trio. I started with the fish, which was perfectly cooked and smoky. The grilled shrimp was nice and as good. But the mindblower was the fried shrimp, with a light but perfectly crispy batter and paired beautifully with their outstanding crema. By far the best meal I had had thus far – and only $15 with tip.

Wanting to walk off the tacos, I headed towards the bar district to check out the scene. It being Friday night the area was bustlingly. I stopped into a few including the famous El Squid Roe, which really hadn’t changed since I was last here.

Overall it was skewing a bit too touristy for my tastes so I walked back towards the Marina to a local favorite, The Nowhere Bar. I hung out a bit there but eventually heard my bed calling so I made the now familiar path to my building. Tomorrow would be a day of visiting old haunts, which would be a lot of fun.