The weather had definitely turned with rain threatening. Fortunately, I had purposefully planned for basically an off day, including finally checking out one of the spots in the Marina I had passed multiple times. It being Sunday, I wanted to have a Mexican style brunch and chilaquiles (aka breakfast nachos) were on my mind.

I walked literally around the corner to Los Deseos, which had multiple chilaquiles options. I decided to try the chicken gratin version, which featured grilled chicken breast, poblano peppers, chips and blended white Mexican cheeses.

I normally associate the dish with poached eggs so this was more like actual nachos. Still, it was pretty damn tasty and a nice change of pace from all of the seafood I had been eating prior.

I had passed by a sign offering 90 min massage for $40 and given the bad weather thought that was a good option. At such a price, I wasn’t expecting much but turned out to an excellent massage.

By night time, the weather had returned to normal, which was a good thing as the restaurant I was going to, Metate, is almost all outside. It being voted the best new restaurants in Cabo was intriguing enough, but what really made me book it was the fact it was outside of the “golden zone.”

After being driven down literally a dirt road (but still only 15 mins away) , I entered into what felt like an entirely different world than what I had experiencing since I got to Cabo. Gone were dudes in floral shirts and shorts at dinner (it’s not an effin luau guys) and instead was a calm, serene vibe I had been craving.

I was warmly welcomed and led to a lovely table in the courtyard where they had a sign with my name, a simple but graceful touch. Metate is known for applying new techniques to classic Baja cuisine, including offering cooking classes in their large outdoor space.

I decided to get 2 starters in lieu of a main to get a bit more variety. First up was a roasted beet salad with fresh herbs, cherry tomatoes, curds in a tepache dressing. I had never had beets with cherry tomatoes but they really worked together in this dish. The dressing was particularly interesting with a mix of sweet, sour and a bit spicy.

Next up was their signature starter – Huesos de Corado – roasted bone marrow with toppings that are changed on a regular basis. Tonight’s version was Roasted bone marrow with shredded Machaca beef, grilled shrimp, watermelon radishes and creamy avocado.

It was served with both grilled bread and corn tortillas. The bread was the way to go to smear all of that combined goodness into a single bite. The rich bone marrow and shredded beef was nicely paired with the slightly bitter radishes and the avocado cream. Delicious and very glad I made that my last savory course.

I had yet to have a dessert on this trip so after taking a breather, I zeroed in on an intriguing option – Mexican chocolate lava cake with blue corn ice cream and peanuts. It was quite simply the best dessert I had in a long, long time.

I was first puzzled why the ice cream was on top but it soon made sense as when I cut into the cake, the hot Mexican chocolate oozed out making a combined wondrous sauce. There’s really nothing better than high end Mexican chocolate with those spices mixing with slightly savory ice cream. Mind blowing.

I said my goodbyes and decided to hit up a spot close to apartment for a nightcap. My heart sank a little as I was once again surrounded by some truly Ugly Americans who were basically yelling at each other in various states of inebriation. I tried to tune it all out and enjoy my port, which more or less worked. The most obnoxious group thankfully left so I was able to enjoy the last quarter of my drink in relative calm.

I took the quick walk back to my place, still thinking about how special Metate was. Tomorrow would be the last hurrah, revisiting some spots both new and old as my time in Cabo was quickly coming to a close.