The weather had cleared up again which also meant the heat was back too. Rather than schlepping up the hill, I opted for a quick Uber for round 2 at Tacos Gardenias. Along with the fried shrimp, this time I went with a fried fish and grilled octopus.

They were once again all excellent with the smoky tender octopus stacking up to the ones I had at Asi y Asado. The fried fish, like the shrimp, was light, crispy and not oily at all. I decided to try some of the avocado crema, which was a great condiment for it. Muy sabrosa!

After cooling off for a bit, I once again headed over to Baja Brewing Co but this time for some sunset cerveza. I took my same seat at the bar to admire the truly impressive vistas and noticed a band was setting up on a nearby stage. I took in a couple of decent rock covers until finishing up my beer.

After a much needed siesta, it was time for the grand finale – dinner at the truly unique El Farallon. Located a mere 10 minute drive from the heart of the action, the restaurant and the surrounding Waldorf-Astoria property were like being on another planet. I was greeted at the front of the hotel and escorted through a winding path with the sounds of the surf growing louder and louder.

The restaurant was perched along the edge of the cliff with crashing waves below. Suffice to say, it was all pretty spectacular, made even all the more so thanks to the full moon brightly hanging above.

I was escorted to my table with the explanation that given the proximity to the waves, it’s possible I might get some spray. I said I was fine being in the splash zone and took my seat. Since I was dining solo, they rearranged the table so my view was the entire coastline. As if that wasn’t enough, suddenly a small fireworks show started at the end of the nearby beach.

I decided to mix things up and instead of the usual glass of wine, I chose their ginger and cucumber mojito, which my server informed me was his favorite. He then explained that they don’t have a traditional menu and that their “fish master” would be by shortly.

After about 10 minutes, the “fish master” arrived, toting a large blackboard. He started at the top, showing the various catch of the day along with other seafood options like shrimp and lobster. I decided to go with the red snapper and picked the roasted tomato with a curry crust and the basil penne pasta as my two sides.

The first course was supposed to be a tortilla soup but that had garlic so instead I got I assume the vegan option – sweet corn cream soup with coconut soup. This was perfectly fine albeit perhaps a bit too sweet. The corn was fresh and crunchy. A nice start to the meal.

Next was a trio of appetizers. A piece of grilled white sea bass, ceviche of sea bass and pickled carrot and cherry tomato salad. Again, none of these were mind blowing but quite tasty. And reality, with this spectacular setting, it was more than acceptable.

Finally, it was time for the main event. The snapper was perfectly cooked with a nice crispy skin. The side cup of drawn butter was a nice touch. The basil pasta was decent but the real surprise was the roasted tomato with a curry crust, which exploded with flavor. A great main plate.

Finally, it was dessert time and since I was oh solo mio, they gave me both that are normally shared. Score! Two different profiteroles- one with a coffee crème and chocolate sauce and the other a mango/vanilla filling with butterscotch sauce and candied peanuts. They were both delicious and incredibly rich so I didn’t have even attempt to finish them off.

I waved the white flag and while tempted for a nightcap of tequila, which my server insisted was great for digestion (right) I politely declined. As I waited for my check, I took in one last glance of the truly awe-inspiring setting and returned back to Earth via the short Uber ride home.

Thus was effectively the end of my 3rd sojourn to Cabo, a great trip and fun adventure as always in one of my favorite spots in Mexico. It definitely wouldn’t be another 21 years to return again.

The weather had definitely turned with rain threatening. Fortunately, I had purposefully planned for basically an off day, including finally checking out one of the spots in the Marina I had passed multiple times. It being Sunday, I wanted to have a Mexican style brunch and chilaquiles (aka breakfast nachos) were on my mind.

I walked literally around the corner to Los Deseos, which had multiple chilaquiles options. I decided to try the chicken gratin version, which featured grilled chicken breast, poblano peppers, chips and blended white Mexican cheeses.

I normally associate the dish with poached eggs so this was more like actual nachos. Still, it was pretty damn tasty and a nice change of pace from all of the seafood I had been eating prior.

I had passed by a sign offering 90 min massage for $40 and given the bad weather thought that was a good option. At such a price, I wasn’t expecting much but turned out to an excellent massage.

By night time, the weather had returned to normal, which was a good thing as the restaurant I was going to, Metate, is almost all outside. It being voted the best new restaurants in Cabo was intriguing enough, but what really made me book it was the fact it was outside of the “golden zone.”

After being driven down literally a dirt road (but still only 15 mins away) , I entered into what felt like an entirely different world than what I had experiencing since I got to Cabo. Gone were dudes in floral shirts and shorts at dinner (it’s not an effin luau guys) and instead was a calm, serene vibe I had been craving.

I was warmly welcomed and led to a lovely table in the courtyard where they had a sign with my name, a simple but graceful touch. Metate is known for applying new techniques to classic Baja cuisine, including offering cooking classes in their large outdoor space.

I decided to get 2 starters in lieu of a main to get a bit more variety. First up was a roasted beet salad with fresh herbs, cherry tomatoes, curds in a tepache dressing. I had never had beets with cherry tomatoes but they really worked together in this dish. The dressing was particularly interesting with a mix of sweet, sour and a bit spicy.

Next up was their signature starter – Huesos de Corado – roasted bone marrow with toppings that are changed on a regular basis. Tonight’s version was Roasted bone marrow with shredded Machaca beef, grilled shrimp, watermelon radishes and creamy avocado.

It was served with both grilled bread and corn tortillas. The bread was the way to go to smear all of that combined goodness into a single bite. The rich bone marrow and shredded beef was nicely paired with the slightly bitter radishes and the avocado cream. Delicious and very glad I made that my last savory course.

I had yet to have a dessert on this trip so after taking a breather, I zeroed in on an intriguing option – Mexican chocolate lava cake with blue corn ice cream and peanuts. It was quite simply the best dessert I had in a long, long time.

I was first puzzled why the ice cream was on top but it soon made sense as when I cut into the cake, the hot Mexican chocolate oozed out making a combined wondrous sauce. There’s really nothing better than high end Mexican chocolate with those spices mixing with slightly savory ice cream. Mind blowing.

I said my goodbyes and decided to hit up a spot close to apartment for a nightcap. My heart sank a little as I was once again surrounded by some truly Ugly Americans who were basically yelling at each other in various states of inebriation. I tried to tune it all out and enjoy my port, which more or less worked. The most obnoxious group thankfully left so I was able to enjoy the last quarter of my drink in relative calm.

I took the quick walk back to my place, still thinking about how special Metate was. Tomorrow would be the last hurrah, revisiting some spots both new and old as my time in Cabo was quickly coming to a close.

It was a perfect day to head to the beach or in my case, next to it so I made my way to the end of the Marina and crossed over to Medano beach, which was not surprisingly packed given the weekend. The sand was quite soft, making it hard to get proper footing so by the time I made it to my destination, I had put in quite the workout.

The Office is a Cabo institution, a home to both families enjoying a meal at the beach and scalawags who flock to the large bar for the generous portions of margaritas and other classic libations. I went here both of my previous trips but not for lunch so I was curious how the (not cheap) food was.

I was hoping to try one of their breakfast dishes but alas only lunch menu now. Still, the shrimp tacos “governor style” (stewed tomatoes, green peppers and Jack cheese) sounded like a good stand in. Served this way and with the large flour tortillas it more like a crepe than a traditional taco trio. The shrimps were perfectly cooked paired nicely with the veggies and melted cheese. Not cheap but delicious.

The nice weather quickly got fairly cloudy so I decided to leave the beach to go check out this small batch tequila store to do a tasting. The owner was very jovial and accommodating, allowing me to try not only their more standard repasados and añejos but also a couple of “extra” añejos. Of course my favorites were the most expensive ones. I told him I had to think about it and asked how much for the tastings. He shook his head and said it was free. I tipped him a few bucks and went on my way, now just a wee bit tipsy.

Despite the looming dark skies, I decided to head up to my roof deck pool again, this time actually getting in the water, which was exactly what I needed. I hung out a bit on the chaise lounge to dry off and eventually went back to my room for a siesta and change of clothes for my nostalgic tripped dinner.

Edith’s is another Cabo staple and in fact shares the same owner. I had been here both of my previous Cabo trips so another visit was a must. The restaurant basically put Baja cuisine on the map and is a truly stunning venue.

I was welcomed with a vegetable tostada, which was delicious. In classic steakhouse fashion, I was soon present with tray full of options from which to choose. It was a no brainer to get the wood grilled Catch of the Day with grilled asparagus, sautéed spinach and mashed potatoes, a meal my dad often tries to get even when not on the menu prepared that way. So this one is for you, Dad.

The generous filet was perfectly cooked and so fresh. The vegetable medley with a nice accompaniment and the mashed potatoes were very creamy. Simple but delicious.

As a night cap, I decided to go check out Bar 360 next to the restaurant. The venue was in the same hotel as the Baja Brewing but a few floors higher so the views were even more stunning.

I selected a Mezcal based margarita but told them to hold the agave syrup so I could enjoy more of that smokiness I love so much in a cocktail. I sipped on my drink and did some prime people watching – a mix of sauced hotel guests and those just out for a night on the town.

I was starting to fade pretty fast so I finished up my drink and made the quick walk back to my apartment. I didn’t have anything planned the next day but that night would be a different story. Stay tuned.

The next day it as time to finally hit the playa so I made a hike up a surprisingly steep hill and then back down again to get to the heart of the Medano beach. I had read about a relatively chill spot that had a nice view, Milky Beach.

There were 3 levels but I chose the middle one which my hostess said was her favorite. It was indeed a beautiful view that I basically had all to myself. Wanting something a bit lighter for lunch I opted for the seafood ceviche with fresh shrimp, octopus and tuna.

I should have put something next to this for scale but it was a massive bowl of seafood goodness. It was a bit spicier than I prefer but I eventually got used to it. They even gave me a free bottle after apologizing for it being a bit too spicy. That was a nice touch.

I had read about a local brewery, Cabo Brewing Company, which happened to be right up the hill so off I went. I navigated my way through a new, sleek hotel and went up to the 7th floor to be greeted by this truly stunning view.

The owner, Guillermo, welcomed me and asked what type of beer I liked. I said I wanted to try a few different ones so he gave me a taster option of 4 of his favorites – ranging for a hazy IPA to a Black IPA (my favorite) The quality was quite good and I mean just look at the view!

I remarked to Guillermo that the biggest change that I’ve seen since I was here 21 years ago is the height of the buildings. I never had really gotten an aerial view like this before of the coast.

I decided to have one more round of 2 other beers – their signature blonde and a sweet potato one (interesting but a sample was enough) along with the black IPA and the stout I had earlier.

Tonight was the only night where I didn’t have any dinner plans so I asked Guillermo where he goes on his night off. He quickly replied with Gardenias Tacos. Sold.

So after a much needed siesta, soon I was off to go check out this favorite of the locals, which was pretty close to my apartment. I love hole in the wall places like this so I was a happy camper.

I had yet to have a fish or shrimp taco so why not both? I selected a grilled fish, shrimp and fried shrimp taco. Not exactly the speediest of service but eventually was presented with this glorious trio. I started with the fish, which was perfectly cooked and smoky. The grilled shrimp was nice and as good. But the mindblower was the fried shrimp, with a light but perfectly crispy batter and paired beautifully with their outstanding crema. By far the best meal I had had thus far – and only $15 with tip.

Wanting to walk off the tacos, I headed towards the bar district to check out the scene. It being Friday night the area was bustlingly. I stopped into a few including the famous El Squid Roe, which really hadn’t changed since I was last here.

Overall it was skewing a bit too touristy for my tastes so I walked back towards the Marina to a local favorite, The Nowhere Bar. I hung out a bit there but eventually heard my bed calling so I made the now familiar path to my building. Tomorrow would be a day of visiting old haunts, which would be a lot of fun.

It’s not typical of me to do multiple foreign trips in the same year. However, when I discovered I had $400 in United fare credits I had to use by the end of the year, that gave me an excuse to do so. Viva Mexico!

It had been over 21 teas since I was last in Cabo and since it was both a short trip as well as being in my fare credit limit, seemed like a perfect time to return. Hola, Sammy.

After leaving the airport, my first stop was a place featured a few years ago on Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives where I lusted over the octopus tacos show in the segment. Since it was just outside of the main drag of Cabo, it made sense to go there straight from the airport.

A funky little spot with colorful art and a series of ceiling fans to cool off the main room, it was a perfect way to reintroduce myself to the charms of Cabo when avoiding the tourist traps.

By this point, having been up since 5am, I was starving and shorty after ordering, the tacos arrived. I had selected 2 of the char grilled octopus tacos and an el pastor as suggested by my server. The main event was as good as hoped for – with the smoky flavor of the grill penetrating the tender pieces of octopus enveloped in a truly exceptional flour tortilla. Outstanding.

The el pastor was straight off the trompo with large slices pineapple to give that signature savory sweet combination. Another winner, especially with another exceptional flour tortilla.

In desperate need of a siesta, I headed to the Airbnb I had rented in the heart of the Marina. It turned out to be even more charming than the photos and surprisingly roomy for a small one bedroom.

I’m a sucker of an old skool seafood restaurant and when looking at nearby options for my Día del Pavo Baja style, Neptune Seafood Restaurant stood out because of its alluring open air concept with outdoor seating high above the crashing surf.

I decided to give a Baja based Chardonnay a shot and was pleasantly surprised. Nothing award winning but quite nice. As a starter, I chose the Crustacean Crema – a soup made of up shrimp, lobster and crab with chunks of lobster. This was delicious. Deep in flavor but surprisingly not to heavy at all made even better by the mini baguettes to sop up the last bits of the soup.

For my main course after my usual garlic negotiations, the chef decided to make me a pan roasted filet of local white sea bass along with white quinoa in a balsamic glaze and grilled asparagus. The fish was perfectly cooked with a gloriously crispy skin and the sides paired nicely. An excellent dish.

I initially considered a dessert but quickly realized I was actually pretty full. Plus, this hadn’t been a cheap mean already so it was time to go although I had to snap a pic of this pirate ship bar that apparently was only open during the day.

I took a quick Uber back to the Marina but it was so nice out, I decided to stay a quick stroll.

Quick being the operative word as the long day caught up with me. Tomorrow was planned to be another day of exploration, this time beach-side so I needed the sleep.

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